My family was blessed with the gift of a complete Disney World vacation from the kids’ grandpa, and it was absolutely the best week ever (Fittingly matching our new albums vacation. and Best Day Ever!)

A lot has changed since I last visited Walt Disney World 40 years ago—from new thrill rides to meal plans. The biggest change is the heavy use of technology, especially the Disney World mobile app, which lets guests do nearly everything from ordering food to scheduling arrival times for attractions. The parks still retain their unique magic, and the experience is undeniably enchanting, but it’s incredibly expensive. To make the most of your family’s trip, it pays to plan ahead.

Disney’s Polynesian Village Resort

The Polynesian is one of two Magic Kingdom resorts (the other being the Grand Floridian). It has a wonderful island ambiance right from the entrance, with lush tropical landscaping and huge gas torches surrounding the main lobby building. The classic Polynesian music playing in the background creates a delightful atmosphere. It’s a great resort overall, though I would have liked to see more torches throughout the expansive grounds.

The themed pools are very nice, with slides and plenty of deck chairs—though not many in the shade. The lifeguards I observed were the most diligent I’ve ever seen, which added a welcome layer of reassurance with so many children around.

Every cast member at the resort was friendly and helpful, and the resort was well staffed so guests rarely had to wait long to speak with someone.

The Polynesian turned out to be more expensive than the Grand Floridian, which likely explains why it felt more popular. It had a great vibe that the kids loved. The Moana theme was a hit, and the rooms featured the “Hey Disney!” voice assistant (the Disney equivalent of Alexa or Siri).

Our rooms, located in one of the many older buildings spread across the vast campus, were nicely updated inside but the building itself felt dated and could use a renovation (including a larger elevator). Much of the resort—aside from the new large tower—appears to date back to when the park opened in 1971. As a result, there was ongoing construction and remodeling around the main building, which definitely detracted from the experience.

The Grand Floridian is absolutely stunning in its classic West Indies style. It has a much classier, more timeless feel than the Polynesian, though it may be less appealing to kids.

On our “off day” in the middle of the week, we scheduled a breakfast buffet at 1900 Park Fare, located at Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort & Spa. The setting is elegant, and the buffet is excellent, with all the classic breakfast offerings. The highlights had to be the Mickey-shaped waffles—particularly delicious, even without syrup—and a standout breakfast pizza from the kids’ section: gravy, cheese, egg, and bacon on a croissant. Phenomenal. The default mango-guava juice was also excellent.

Four Disney characters were roaming the dining room, giving the kids a chance to meet Cinderella, Aladdin, and Tiana, which made the experience even more memorable.

For some reason, we ended up doing two buffets that day—though the second wasn’t exactly planned. We went to ‘Ohana at Disney’s Polynesian Village Resort expecting a typical dinner, but from the moment we sat down, they started bringing out an endless stream of sweet and savory Polynesian dishes.

The concept is “family-style” dining (ohana means family), so they keep bringing food, and you can request more of anything you like. Everything on the menu—pork dumplings tossed in garlic-chili sauce, honey-coriander chicken wings, wood-fire grilled black pepper-teriyaki beef, peel-and-eat shrimp with ‘Ohana seasoning, grilled chicken with guava-pineapple glaze, ‘Ohana noodles, and stir-fry vegetables—was outstanding. My personal favorites were the pepper-teriyaki beef, the noodles, and the vegetables.

They also served a Hawaiian Mule cocktail that may have officially dethroned the bourbon mule as the best cocktail on the planet.

Then came dessert: the famous ‘Ohana bread pudding with caramel sauce—rich, warm, and unforgettable. The staff were incredibly friendly, and of course, there was some lighthearted serenading to round out the experience.

One of my favorite meals ever.

Transportation

Disney makes it fairly easy to get around, especially if you stay at one of the Magic Kingdom resorts. Both the Polynesian and Grand Floridian have monorail stops, and the monorail runs regularly throughout the day on a clockwise loop:

  • Polynesian Resort
  • Grand Floridian Resort
  • Magic Kingdom
  • Contemporary Resort
  • Transportation and Ticket Center (TTC)

The full circuit takes about 22 minutes. From the TTC, you can transfer to reach Epcot. That’s the extent of the monorail system.

The TTC was originally planned to be a resort but was converted into a transportation hub instead.

There’s also a ferry that runs from Magic Kingdom to the various resorts on Seven Seas Lagoon. It’s a little slower than the monorail and therefore less crowded, but it’s a relaxing way to travel back and forth.

A walking path also connects Magic Kingdom to the Grand Floridian, Polynesian, and TTC. We used it after closing time on nights when the monorail lines were obnoxiously long. It takes about 15–20 minutes to walk from Magic Kingdom to the Polynesian. On our first attempt, however, we got stuck at the drawbridge while they let the 80s Lagoon Light Show barges pass (they really should handle that process well after guests have left the park).

The Disney World App

The Disney World app is the centerpiece of the modern Disney World experience. You can handle almost all purchasing and planning—from Lightning Lane passes to food orders—within it. It’s a very capable app, but it’s not designed intuitively. We struggled to take full advantage of its features because many were buried in unexpected places.

We purchased the most extensive dining plan, which included one snack, one quick-service meal, and one table-service meal per person per day. These credits could be used on various items at restaurants throughout the parks and resorts.

We found the process wasn’t always easy, especially when coordinating multiple family members. On our first night, we arrived at the resort hungry and tried to use a quick-service credit by ordering through the app instead of waiting in line. By the time we got everyone’s orders straightened out, the order timed out, forcing us to start over and push back our arrival time. Ordering via the app only really works well if you know exactly what everyone wants and can plan ahead.

Each adult quick-service or table-service meal includes one entrée, one beverage (alcoholic or non-alcoholic), and one dessert. The app doesn’t prompt you to select the drink, so you have to request it when picking up your order—or simply order everything in line. There are almost always lines at these restaurants, but they tend to move efficiently.

Kids’ meal plans (for children up to age 10) are included free with the purchase of an adult dining plan—a very nice perk. The kids’ meals were typically smaller but sufficient for most children under 10.

Lightning Lanes

We purchased Lightning Lane passes (upwards of $40 per person per day, with prices varying by park) for the first three days of our trip. This was easily the most convoluted part of the experience, but the passes definitely saved us time in lines.

When you buy Lightning Lane passes up to a week in advance, you can pre-select up to three attractions. You get to choose one from the top-tier list (the biggest, most popular rides like Tiana’s Bayou Adventure) and two from the second-tier list (less popular rides like Space Mountain). Certain new rides, such as TRON Lightcycle / Run and Star Wars: Rise of the Resistance, are not included in the standard Lightning Lane and require a separate single-ride purchase for around $20.

When you make your selections, you’re assigned the earliest available time slots in succession (often starting about an hour after purchase). The later you buy your passes, the later your time slots will be. If you purchase and select rides on the same morning, you’ll likely only get afternoon or evening slots. You can enter the ride up to five minutes before your scheduled time but not earlier. Once you use a Lightning Lane, that attraction is removed from your list and you can add another.

If you have a Park Hopper ticket, you can add attractions from different parks. We started some days in Hollywood Studios or EPCOT and later added Lightning Lane rides in Magic Kingdom after dinner, allowing us to skip long lines.

One odd quirk is that the Lightning Lane system doesn’t account for location, so you may end up with back-to-back reservations on opposite sides of the park. I wouldn’t let the schedule completely dictate your day—walking across the park can waste as much time as standing in line. You can cancel a reservation if needed, and the app will show the next available time, which is helpful.

Magic Kingdom Park

We began our trip at the crown jewel of Disney World: Magic Kingdom. The park has kept all of its quaint yet impressive charm. Walking down Main Street toward Cinderella Castle for the first time is a magical experience in itself, and the kids were thrilled.

Since we stayed at a Disney Deluxe Resort, we received Early Access—30 minutes in the park before non-resort guests could enter. This was a huge advantage because we didn’t have individual ride access passes. It allowed us to ride the most popular attractions, like TRON Lightcycle / Run and Star Wars: Rise of the Resistance, before the lines became crazy.

The entrance to TRON Lightcycle / Run is next to Space Mountain. The ride gives you a unique coaster experience, with riders locked into motorcycle-style vehicles. It’s impressive how secure it feels. The theming is excellent—you really feel like you’re inside the game. The ride starts with a dramatic launch and an outdoor loop before heading into the dark interior. It’s a lot of fun, though quite short. I would have been disappointed if I’d had to wait more than the 20 minutes we experienced.

As we approached the ride, my younger boys (ages 9 and 8) got scared and decided not to go. My 11-year-old and father-in-law rode instead and enjoyed it.

We enjoyed all the classic rides: Tomorrowland Speedway, Peter Pan’s Flight, t’s a Small World,Pirates of the Caribbean, and Aladdin’s Magic Carpet. The girls especially loved Enchanted Tales with Belle, which was probably their favorite experience of the day. It’s an interactive show where the little girls get to play a role in the story after meeting Belle. My 6-year-old daughter was impressed and exclaimed, “She even smelled like Belle!”

By lunchtime we had worked up an appetite and stopped at the nearby quick-service restaurant Columbia Harbour House for some New England-style fare. Ordering was a bit confusing, but we found a table fairly easily in the wonderful colonial tavern-style setting. The food was excellent. I had the lobster roll, and my father-in-law had the shrimp salad. We didn’t realize you could get any drink—including beer—with the quick-service dining plan, so we all ordered water. Given how important hydration was, that was probably for the best. The kids enjoyed their chicken strips and fries.

The big afternoon ride was Tiana’s Bayou Adventure, a re-theming of the old Splash Mountain. While the original was great, the new version is excellent. Being from the New Orleans area, we love The Princess and the Frog, and the ride is long and really fun. Unfortunately, the big drops ruined the kids for other rides for the rest of the trip.

Afterward, we headed to the Grand Floridian for dinner. The resort is gorgeous, with its classic West Indies white architecture, abundant sunlight, and tropical plants filling the atrium. There was a grand piano in the center, and the staff graciously let my son play a bit of a Mozart sonata.

Dinner at the Grand Floridian Cafe was excellent. The Signature Burger—with brie and sweet pepper jelly on a brioche bun—was outstanding, and they made our son a special birthday cake that was delicious. My youngest boy enjoyed a fun “Worms ’n’ Dirt” dessert (gummy worms in chocolate pudding). The staff there were just as wonderful as at the Polynesian.

From the Grand Floridian, we walked back to Magic Kingdom and enjoyed some of the older classic rides while everyone else watched the fireworks. Nighttime in the park feels genuinely magical. It’s cooler and less crowded, and the rides are much easier to access (with or without Lightning Lane).

We caught parts of the “Happily Ever After” fireworks display from various spots around the park each night but never saw it from the front. It always looked too crowded to be worth it. On our last day, we watched the full presentation on TV and finally understood why people stake out spots in front of the castle: there’s an entire animated film that plays in sync with the music and fireworks. It was inspirational and fun—probably worth seeing from the front at least once. That said, my favorite viewing spot was from the back of the castle, right in the middle of the fireworks. It was loud but absolutely amazing. The park’s nighttime lighting is beautiful on its own, but the fireworks add another dimension. It’s an experience I think the kids will remember forever, even though they were well past their bedtime.

Hollywood Studios

The boys and I were especially excited for our Hollywood Studios day because that’s where all the Star Wars action is. We arrived early to take advantage of Early Access again and walked straight past a huge line into the park’s most popular ride: Star Wars: Rise of the Resistance. It was outstanding—a multi-stage immersive experience featuring animatronics, video holograms, and live actors guiding guests through an escape from a First Order base with Kylo Ren. The sets felt incredibly realistic. I loved seeing the life-sized AT-ATs and hearing R2-D2 sounds (even if they came from a different droid). The cockpit battle scene was excellent and made you feel like you were really in the movies. This was probably my favorite ride of the trip. Even though I haven’t seen the newest Star Wars films, it incorporated enough classic elements that any Star Wars fan would enjoy it. The kids loved it too.

The entire Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge area was impressive, though it’s modeled mostly after the newer movies (which I’m less excited about). I would have loved a Hoth scene, and my daughter would have enjoyed something with Ewoks, which were noticeably absent. Still, we saw Chewbacca and, of course, Darth Vader. The stormtroopers walking around and interacting with guests were a fantastic touch.

Millennium Falcon: Smugglers Run was another fun ride. We used a Lightning Lane for easy access and enjoyed the immersive atmosphere. Each rider is assigned a role, and you score points by piloting the Falcon and shooting enemies. Our first attempt was pretty terrible because we had no idea what we were doing—the cast member at the end kindly told us our score wasn’t the worst he’d ever seen.

While the boys were deep in the Star Wars universe, the girls enjoyed the sing-along show For the First Time in Forever: A Frozen Sing-Along Celebration, which they loved. My daughter (for some reason) adores the Frozen music and happily belted out the songs. Apparently it snows when Elsa appears. Yay?

The main area of Hollywood Studios recreates Hollywood during its Golden Age in the 1940s. It’s a beautiful setting with period-appropriate music, architecture, and billboards that make you feel like you’ve traveled back in time.

We watched a well-done, abridged 30-minute version of Beauty and the Beast in a recreation of the Hollywood Bowl, complete with a full cast, song mashups, and dancing. We also saw the Indiana Jones Epic Stunt Spectacular, a fun behind-the-scenes look at movie stunts and special effects. We had Lightning Lane passes for the shows, but they weren’t necessary—there was plenty of seating in the theaters. I’d recommend saving your Lightning Lane slots for rides instead.

By that point we were approaching meltdown mode, so we headed to the Backlot Express restaurant right next to the Indiana Jones show. The food was great, but I don’t recommend going right after the show ends—the line was painfully long. I ordered the Smoked BBQ Pulled Pork Burger ($15.99) with fries and a Pineapple-Citrus Margarita ($18.50). Everything was delicious. The kids had their usual favorites, so everyone was happy. The decor is a shabby backlot theme with paint cans—not the most inspiring ambiance—but the food made up for it.

We skipped the Toy Story area because we couldn’t get a Lightning Lane for Slinky Dog Dash, and the whole place felt uncomfortably plastic in the blazing midday heat. We did ride Mickey & Minnie’s Runaway Railway, a fun, immersive, all-ages attraction that takes you through the modern Mickey Mouse cartoon world.

By then it was time to head to Disney Springs for our dinner reservation. We had taken a shuttle from the resort to Hollywood Studios, but there are no direct shuttles from Hollywood Studios to Disney Springs. Instead, we took the Skyliner to Disney’s Caribbean Beach Resort, then to Disney’s Riviera Resort (a relaxing and fun ride that only slowed once). From there, we walked to the shuttle station and caught the next bus to Disney Springs. The process was fairly efficient overall, though we got lucky with timing on the way there and unlucky on the way back. The shuttle from Disney Springs to the Polynesian took forever both to arrive and to get us back to the resort. If you’re heading to Disney Springs, I’d recommend using a rideshare or personal transportation instead. Our vacation planner had suggested two dinner restaurants there, but we changed the last one to the Boathouse and ultimately moved it into a park to avoid the extra travel.

Disney Springs is essentially a fancy outdoor shopping and entertainment district. We ate at Frontera Cocina after the long journey. The food and service were pretty good, but they didn’t offer the kids’ staples of chicken tenders or fries (of course), so one child protested by resting her head on the table the entire meal. I had the Grilled Red Snapper, which was tasty but not amazing. It needed more flavor, so we asked for extra salsas—which they provided for an additional charge. I’m not sure if it was because we were on the dining plan, but on a nearly $400 bill, charging $2.50 for an ounce or two of salsa felt tacky. I also asked if we could swap a kids’ meal that didn’t appeal to our children for a cheaper fried plantain side dish, but they said they couldn’t do that. I tried the “Playing with Fire” drink, which was too experimental—the hibiscus salt ruined what could have been a delicious spicy-sweet cocktail. On the positive side, the Flan de Queso with its tropical fruit spread and the Quatro Leches were both phenomenal.

EPCOT

We walked to the Transportation and Ticket Center (TTC) in the morning and took the Monorail to EPCOT to get early access again. The girls went straight to Frozen Ever After, while the guys headed toward Test Track. I thought we might squeeze in two rides before the official opening, so we jumped on Spaceship Earth—the iconic “giant golf ball.”

It was surprisingly fun and impressive for an attraction that opened in 1982—a relaxing journey through the history of human communication. Unfortunately, it was a little too relaxing. By the time we finished, the park had officially opened, and the line for Test Track was already too long, so we pivoted and headed to France for Remy’s Ratatouille Adventure.

That ride was a brilliant, immersive experience that shrinks you into the world of culinary Paris as a rat. It ended up being one of the favorites for everyone in our group—as it is for many visitors—so lines can get quite long.

The entire France pavilion is beautifully done. It seems the back section was expanded for the Ratatouille attraction, but Disney absolutely nailed the ambiance. It’s a wonderful place to enjoy a crêpe or a glass of wine along a stylized 1800s Parisian street on the Seine.

There’s both a table-service restaurant and a quick-service crêperie in the same area, which can be a bit confusing. You can walk up and order from Crêpes À Emporter by La Crêperie de Paris, much like grabbing a bite on Rue Mouffetard in Paris.

The crêpes (and galettes—the savory buckwheat versions) weren’t quite traditional, and customization was limited. We ended up with the Béchamel, Cheese & Ham Galette (tasty but messy) and a simple Nutella crêpe. I would have preferred a classic gruyère-and-ham or Nutella-banana combination, but those weren’t options. The Cream of Brie Cheese Galette, however, was excellent. Ordering at the window was a bit clunky—one staff member was very helpful, while another was less so—but we got through it.

The World Showcase felt even more impressive than I remembered from 40 years ago. Being able to “tour the world” in a single day is still remarkable. From France, we made our way to Mexico and rode the Gran Fiesta Tour Starring The Three Caballeros—a relaxing and visually beautiful boat ride.

The restaurant inside brought back vivid childhood memories, though this time we ate at the nearby quick-service spot, La Cantina de San Angel. Ordering was chaotic (as usual), and we couldn’t snag a seat on the scenic outdoor patio, so we ate inside. The food was decent, but the margarita stood out.

Later we sampled a massive so-so German pretzel and soaked up the Bavarian-style square in the Germany area.

That night, we dined at Via Napoli. It was a large warehouse style restaurant (similar to what I remember from the Spaghetti Factory). Our waitress was friendly and accommodating but the food was just okay. I think they kept to the authentic Italian pizza, but really it doesn’t come close to the Americanized version of it. The crust was a little spongey and there’s just not much flavor there. I ordered the filet mignon and it was good though they undercooked it. Everyone loved the calamari and the spaghetti was good, but not amazing. The tiramisu was delicious but we all were rushing to finish because it was so cold in there.

After lunch, we headed to The Land pavilion for Soarin’ Around the World. It’s a fun simulation of flight over global landmarks. Compared to the Disneyland version, it seemed to lack some of the scent effects, but it was still impressive. The guy next to me was so enthusiastic he kept shouting mid-ride—which added its own kind of entertainment.

Next, we noticed a short wait for Living with the Land, and it turned out to be one of our group’s favorites. It’s a peaceful boat ride through Disney’s aquaponics and hydroponics systems, showcasing innovative agricultural techniques. Since I run an aquaponics setup at home, I found this especially fascinating. They offer a behind-the-scenes tour as well, but it costs extra—hard to justify, though tempting.

We also watched Awesome Planet, a beautifully produced IMAX-style film about Earth’s ecosystems. While visually stunning, it leaned a bit heavy on messaging that could benefit from a more balanced focus on conservation without politicization.

The EPCOT International Flower & Garden Festival was underway, filling the park with incredible floral displays. There were plenty of special activities, but we stayed focused on the main attractions.

We then rode The Seas with Nemo & Friends, which had a short wait. The ride itself was just okay, but the attached aquarium was outstanding. Watching sharks and divers through massive viewing windows created a peaceful, restorative break from the crowds—especially for the kids.

The next night, we experienced that aquarium from a different perspective at Coral Reef Restaurant. There was a frustrating delay getting seated because one member of our party was briefly in the restroom—Disney’s policy requires the full party to be present. It was understandable but inconvenient, especially since they held the table anyway.

They made up for it by seating us at an incredible table right against the aquarium windows—arguably the best seats in the house, with a sweeping 150-degree underwater view. The ambiance alone made it unforgettable.

The meal started with a fantastic coconut-pineapple bread that disappeared almost instantly. I ordered the grilled snapper with coconut-lime rice, mango salsa, avocado, toasted coconut, and chili-lime seasoning—excellent, though I added a bit of salt. One of my kids ordered the surf-and-turf (filet mignon and shrimp), which was ambitious but delicious. The peppers and key lime chimichurri were standout elements.

Dessert sealed the experience: pineapple-coconut bread pudding (possibly one of the best things I’ve ever tasted) and a key lime tart with Chantilly cream and raspberries. The kids’ chocolate-covered coconut ice cream was also fantastic.

It was the best meal of the trip—and easily one of the top meals I’ve ever had. An extraordinary experience from start to finish.